3 Days in Istanbul During Interesting Times
Hi everyone! This week, I have been managing the sale of my mom’s home. Thank you to everyone for your patience as I’ve been in and out of the office dealing with plumbers (reverse osmosis water filters are ticking time bombs), roofers, movers, and more. Because I knew I would not have time to write this week’s newsletter, I asked a Midwest-based client who just returned from Istanbul to share his experience traveling during strange times. I hope you enjoy this first-person report! I have only lightly edited his words.
Istanbul — A First Person Report
Every year, myself and college friends find a weekend and a European city to catch up and reconnect. We’ve done it every year since Covid. The first year in Lisbon, I still remember how it helped me reconnect with the joys of travel after 18 months in lockdown! This year we went to Istanbul. We decided this last August, before any regional conflicts had arisen. My wife was not keen on me still going last weekend.
Istanbul was always the city from the catchy 90’s song, “Istanbul (Not Constantinople)” by They Might Be Giants. A far-off place once called Constantinople and the continuation of the Roman Empire after Rome had fallen to the Goths. Turkey as a country is much larger than I thought – about the length from Chicago to Denver. Istanbul is over 1200 miles away from the conflict in Iran, and that’s how the crow flies.
Today, Istanbul is a city of 20 million plus. It is the city in-between Europe and Asia, East meets West. There were some hijabs worn but women walked freely. Most tourists were from eastern Europe or Russia. I saw maybe one or two Americans and a few Western Europeans. In talking to those at the hotel and my tour guides, the past month or so has been quiet due to the conflict. But business seemed to be picking back up.
Ready to talk Istanbul and Turkey? You can book a complimentary vacation consultation with Krista here.
The rooftop at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet
I stayed in the Sultanahmet area of the city at the Four Seasons per Krista’s recommendation. It was a few minute walk to the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and the Cistern of Justinian. My first night I was solo before my friends got into town. I asked the concierge and front desk for any thoughts on dinner between a few restaurants I’d picked out. (Comment from Krista: My client is a former professional chef and worked for a very famous chef. So I always trust his comments on food!)
The Four Seasons recommended Sehzade Cag Kebap. A 10-minute walk through the streets led me to an outdoor market area filled with several restaurants, all busy, and a few shops. I was lucky to grab a seat quickly being solo. The order here is the lamb skewer sliced thin with lavash and an onion, pepper, tomato salad. After my initial order of two, I got two more. The food was incredibly simple but so good. The lavash was light and fresh basically there to help you eat the grilled lamb as efficiently as possible. All in, dinner with the tip and some rice cost me about $20 USD.
From leaving the hotel, eating dinner and walking back, I heard no English. It’s been a minute since I’ve felt that disconnected.
Inside the Hagia Sophia
The next day I took a solo tour of the mosques, the cistern and the Grand Bazaar. It was not overly busy and thanks to my guide, I got to skip all of the lines. I’m a huge fan of the Pantheon in Rome and wanted to see the building that dethroned it as the largest domed building on earth, the Hagia Sophia. Once a church, then mosque, museum and now a mosque again, it’s one of those building filled with history. From those immortalized due to their patronage to the building to the carved runes in a marble railing from a Viking tourist, the building feels special. The Blue Mosque is as beautiful as they say and the cistern reminds you of the Roman Engineering that helped them take over the known world. The Grand Bazaar was a fun place to walk through but you’re not really there to shop unless it’s for a simple souvenir. (Comment from Krista: I disagree on the shopping point!!)
Sweets inside the Grand Bazaar—couldn’t find a photo of the gold bars!
One part of the bazaar that did get my attention was the area that sold gold bars. The guide told me the “grannies” still come to keep their wealth in gold and silver. When the war broke out, this was the busiest part of the bizarre as prices rose. When peace seemed imminent, the market was busy again for those looking for a deal. So much buying went on, they sold out of their inventory!
I learned a lot from my guide not only about the buildings and the culture but also the day to day of the modern Turk. Over tea, we discussed life, the current situation and the struggles of trying to get ahead. It made me realize how lucky I am to be able to travel freely without visa concerns, to invest in financial markets that won't be manipulated by the government for its gain, and to enjoy good food with family.
Throughout my weekend, I saw families with all of generations enjoying the nice weather. Those in their 20s gathering over craft cocktails, cigarettes and popcorn could have been anywhere on the planet. On my walk to dinner the first night with my friends, we walked through a crowded area of people drinking and listening to “Smoke on The Water” by Deep Purple at full volume. I thought hearing “Take me Home, Country Roads” is Lisbon during our first guys’ trip seemed odd. This definitely beat that.
At no point did I ever feel unsafe. During the weekend, I noticed woman walking solo and in pairs down busy and quiet streets late into the evening. When people did hear my English, I was never given a side look or asked any questions.
I would gladly go back to Istanbul. I’d make sure to see the mosques, the cistern, take a few food tours and venture out in to the countryside or Asia side of the city.
Note from Krista: The Cistern in Istanbul is one of the most beautiful and interesting places I’ve ever been.
Tips and Tricks
Airport to City – I opted for a private transfer that Krista organized for me. Be patient and everyone is eventually sorted. It’s a process. The Airport is about 45-60 min from the city. My friends took the train and had no issues. I don’t know if it was much faster.
Food – Turkish food is rather meat-centric but there is a lot of mezze and vegetables to be had. The baklava also comes in gluten free forms, if you’re celiac. The tea and coffee are good and everywhere. We had nicer dinners for two nights and it cost about $100 USD per person per night. You can eat well and not spend a ton.
Tours – I did a private tour prearranged and a food tour with the friends. Both were well worth it.
Tipping – 10% across the board seemed fair. I got Turkish Lira from an ATM. (Follow Krista’s tips and only use bank ATMs, not Euronet machines.)
Uber/Cabs – These are easy to get through the apps, but you can easily walk. Depending on your pace you can get around the city easily. There are some hilly parts of the city to be aware of. Personally, I use Apple maps and my AirPods to direct me so I didn’t keep the phone out too much when I walk. (Comment from Krista: This is a GENIUS idea.)
Hotels – Staying in the Sultanahmet area was nice. The Four Seasons, a former prison according to the hotel staff, was beautiful and very modern. Also thankfully, not haunted! The alternative hotel I’d consider next time is The Peninsula Istanbul. It’s along the Bosporus and is also modern. Its location makes it easy to walk the city and it felt like there was more casual dining and shopping near there vs my hotel.
Krista’s Suggestions for Packaged Tours of Turkey
If you are open to exploring Turkey, check out these package from some of my preferred partners:
Ready to explore Turkey? Book a complimentary vacation consultation here.
About Krista
I’m a Virtuoso travel advisor based in Palm Beach, Florida. I attended the University of Notre Dame for undergrad and I have my MBA from the University of Chicago. Before building my travel business, I spent 20 years in the investment management industry and over a decade living and working in London, England. I’ve personally traveled to 80 countries and now design thoughtful, highly customized trips for travelers who value expertise, access, and a seamless experience.
I offer a complimentary 30-minute consultation for travelers considering a custom itinerary or luxury cruise. Book a complimentary vacation consultation here.
For travel inspiration and real-time updates, you can follow along on Instagram or connect with me on Facebook. I also share a curated list of travel products I genuinely use and recommend in my online store.
What I Offer…
Custom itinerary design for complex, multi-stop trips
VIP hotel benefits through Virtuoso and preferred partner programs (including complimentary breakfast, hotel credits, and priority for upgrades where available)
Luxury ocean, river, and expedition cruises with added onboard credits
Vetted villa rentals with concierge services worldwide
Private guides, small-group touring, and unique local experiences
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Airport transfers, VIP arrival and departure services, and full ground logistics
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I work best with travelers who want expert planning, trusted partnerships, and someone in their corner from start to finish. That’s what I am best at! Ready to talk travel? Book a complimentary vacation consultation here.
