First, Some Travel Updates…

Getting Notarized Letters When Traveling with Children: If you're traveling internationally with your children but without your partner, bring a notarized letter giving you permission to take them out of the country. I recently had a mom and daughter headed to Belize who were stopped by United before boarding and asked for this letter. This is often an airline issue—they don't want to risk facilitating human trafficking. Better safe than sorry. Thankfully, there are plenty of online Zoom notaries.

River Cruise Head Injury: On my river cruise last week, an elderly guest fell, hit her head, broke her nose, and bit through her lip. She was taken from the ship by ambulance and came back a day later. Please don't skip travel medical coverage—it isn't expensive. At a minimum, buy medical and evacuation coverage. (Insuring your trip cost is the pricey part.) Caring for my mom taught me that accidents happen more often when your environment changes. Travel is a change of environment: cobblestones, uneven sidewalks, unfamiliar stairs. Protect yourself with a decent travel insurance policy!

Don't Be Mean Because You Booked a Hotel Without Air Conditioning: In Grindelwald this week, I watched an American couple go berserk on hotel staff because the hotel didn't have air conditioning. (No AC is common in many hotels in Switzerland.) Daytime temps were in the mid-80s. First, there's really never a good reason to be rude to hotel staff. Most problems can be solved. Second, this is something you should research before booking. And finally, the temperatures in Grindelwald dropped beautifully at night. Sleeping with the windows open was lovely.

Now…More about My Trip to Switzerland

I'd been to Zurich, Lucerne, and Lugano before, but it’s been a while! So it was time for my own vacation in Switzerland.

From the end point of my Rhine cruise, I took a train 53 minutes to Zürich HB (Hauptbahnhof, which means main train station) where I was able to walk to my hotel. I love cities where you can step off the train and be at your hotel within minutes. So refreshing.

Where to Stay in Zurich

Mandarin Oriental Savoy, Zurich – A beautifully restored landmark on Paradeplatz at the top of Bahnhofstrasse. Perfect if luxury shopping is high on your list.
Baur au Lac – Zurich's legendary grand hotel. Family owned since 1844, it offers classic European luxury, beautiful gardens, and a peaceful setting just steps from Bahnhofstrasse.

My room wasn't ready when I arrived, so I wandered the streets for a few hours. It happened to be Swiss National Day (August 1), so I stumbled onto a parade, which was fun. The downside? Nearly everything was closed.

I stopped into Fraumünster to see Marc Chagall's famous stained-glass windows. I took art history in German in college, so I have this very odd German vocabulary. I can speak at length about Chagall's schwebende Leute ("floating figures").

Zurich is the place for luxury shopping. Bahnhofstrasse is lined with flagship boutiques from just about every luxury brand you can think of. I would have bought myself some diamonds, but sadly...everything was closed.

For lunch, I went to Zeughauskeller, Zurich's famous beer hall. The beer was excellent. The food was good—not spectacular—but the atmosphere and service made it well worth the visit.

Dinner that evening at Kronenhalle was outstanding. I had the veal slices with potato rösti. My only mistake was ordering the beef carpaccio as a starter because I was so full I couldn't finish the rösti. Tragic, really. The service at Kronenhalle was absolutely superb.

The next morning, I headed back to the train station for Grindelwald. It's a direct ride to Interlaken Ost (East), with beautiful views of Lake Thun, that impossibly turquoise lake, along the way.

At Interlaken Ost, we had five minutes to change trains. That doesn't sound stressful until you have heavy luggage and need to change platforms. The train staff were literally cheering people on as they hurried to the next train. It was surprisingly intense, but the two Americans in my train car and I all made it.

The ride from Interlaken to Grindelwald was absolutely gorgeous.

Where to Stay in the Bernese Oberland

Romantik Hotel Schweizerhof Grindelwald, a charming, family-owned luxury hotel with spectacular views of the Eiger. The location couldn't be better—just down the road from the train station.

Bergwelt Grindelwald – Alpine Design Resort. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, in the village center a short walk from the station. Ninety rooms and suites, plus apartments and multi-bedroom residences that work well for families traveling together. (I am a Small Luxury Hotels Within advisor, meaning I can add perks and amenities to your stay.)

Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa, Interlaken. The region's only true five-star, open more than 150 years and recently through a CHF 30 million-plus renovation.

The line for photos at the top of Jungfraujoch (11,332 feet above sea level). I skipped the official photo queue. Tip — buy a Swiss flag in a gift shop and take your own pics with that!

My Adventure in Grindelwald

After checking in to my hotel, I wandered through town, bought myself a new Swiss Army Knife (RIP to the one TSA confiscated more than 20 years ago on my way to Sweden for work), and stopped into the grocery store Coop to admire the endless cheese and chocolate selection.

Then I called it an early night because I had a big sightseeing day ahead.

The next morning, I headed up to Jungfraujoch, known as the "Top of Europe." At 3,454 meters (11,332 feet) above sea level, it's home to the highest railway station in Europe and is one of Switzerland's most iconic excursions. (I was invited to Jungfraujoch by my friends at the Jungfrau Region Tourism Authority. Remember, all these regions are businesses and need to sell themselves. That’s why they work with travel advisors like me.)

Go early. By the time I was heading back down, the crowds had become pretty intense.

The journey begins with the spectacular Eiger Express gondola from Grindelwald Terminal to Eigergletscher. Honestly, even if you decide not to continue all the way to Jungfraujoch, the gondola ride alone is worth it. The views over the green valleys and mountain peaks are incredible in the summer.

From Eigergletscher, you board the cogwheel train. Most of that ride travels through the Eiger mountain in a tunnel, so there aren't many views until you arrive at the top.

Once there, you'll walk through the Ice Palace tunnels before heading outside to the viewing platforms overlooking the Aletsch Glacier. And yes...there was snow. In August. (Luckily it was a relatively warm 44 degrees Fahrenheit.)

I left my hotel around 8:00 a.m. and was back by about 1:00 p.m., with a necessary coffee stop after getting up early and then standing out in the snow.

One final tip: book Jungfraujoch in advance. Don't just show up expecting to buy a ticket. Summer departures often sell out, especially the morning time slots.

I really enjoyed Grindelwald and only scratched the surface. I would happily return. This is a great family vacation destination.

On to Zermatt

Next, I headed to Zermatt. This was definitely the most challenging train journey of the trip—three train changes with luggage. On one connection, me and three Japanese guys had to absolutely book it between platforms to make the next train. (I was surprised by the number of Japanese tourists in Switzerland!)

My advice? Pack light if you're traveling by train in Switzerland. Or, if your itinerary has multiple connections and you're traveling with large suitcases, consider booking private car transfers. (This is something I do for families and my luxury clients.) Also, wear comfortable running shoes on heavy train days. You'll thank me later.

The train journey took about three hours in total, including changes.

When I arrived in Zermatt, the wonderful Tradition Julen Hotel picked me up at the station in one of the town's signature electric vehicles.

One of the things that makes Zermatt so special is that it's car-free. Private gasoline-powered cars aren't allowed in the village. Visitors get around on foot, by bicycle, e-bike, or in the quiet electric taxis and hotel shuttles that zip around town. It gives the entire village an other-worldly feel. BUT watch out for those e-bikes. They are a menace. Someone is going to get hurt, if they haven’t already.

Where to Stay in Zermatt

The Omnia: Built into the cliff above the village and reached by a tunnel and elevator through the rock, so arrival feels like entering a private mountain lodge rather than a hotel. Design-forward American mountain-lodge interiors, only 30 rooms, and the best-positioned outdoor pool in Zermatt for Matterhorn views.

Mont Cervin Palace: The Seiler family grande dame since 1851, in the center of the village and the traditional counterweight to The Omnia's contemporary edge — Leading Hotels of the World, Virtuoso, with a 2,000 sqm spa.

My petite single at Tradition Julen. Every inch was very thoughtfully designed.

During my trip, I stayed at the 4 star (but amazing) Tradition Julen Hotel, which was one of my favorite hotels of the trip.

My room was absolutely beautiful, with warm Swiss pine walls that made it feel like a luxury alpine chalet. Every detail had been thoughtfully considered—from controlling the room temperature on the television to the complimentary minibar and motion-sensor floor lights that gently illuminated the room whenever I got out of bed at night.

The Julen family has been raising the distinctive black-nosed sheep of the Valais region for generations, and that heritage is woven throughout the hotel. Many of the wool products—from blankets and pillows to décor and gifts—are made using wool from the family's own flock. It's one of those authentic touches that makes the hotel feel uniquely Swiss rather than just another luxury property.

Dinner in the hotel's restaurant was outstanding. Marco, my server, took wonderful care of me. I ordered the venison with juniper sauce, which was incredible, but the surprise star of the meal was the butter: an irresistible blend of about 80% churned butter and 20% whipped cream. I could have made an entire dinner out of that butter and the fresh bread.

View from the top of Gornergrat, 10,135 feet above sea level. Sadly, the Matterhorn was covered in clouds during my visit.

The next morning, I headed up to Gornergrat, one of Switzerland's most famous mountain excursions. The cogwheel railway climbs to 3,089 meters (10,135 feet) and offers one of the best views of the Matterhorn, along with dozens of surrounding 4,000-meter peaks.

If you're taking one of the early morning departures, I think it's worth paying a little extra for Priority Boarding. It gives you first access to the best window seats before the train fills up.

Don't rush through the summit station. Besides the spectacular views, the gift shop is one of the nicest I found anywhere in Switzerland.

If you're feeling energetic, you can hike back down using the yellow-marked hiking trails, which in Switzerland indicate standard hiking routes suitable for most walkers. The hike from Gornergrat toward Zermatt takes roughly three to four hours and is considered relatively easy, with incredible Matterhorn views along the way—as long as the weather cooperates.

I skipped the hike and headed back into town instead. I wandered through the shops, browsed the local grocery store (I genuinely love foreign grocery stores), picked up a few souvenirs, and then returned to the hotel.

I briefly considered trying another restaurant in town, but the food and service at Tradition Julen had been so exceptional the night before that I happily ate there again. No regrets whatsoever. The next morning, I headed to St. Moritz, which I’ll tell you more about next week.

All in all though, this was a great few days in Switzerland. It was great to be back!

Tips for Switzerland

Check out my Instagram posts from this past week for more on what I’ve been up to! @antidote.travel on Instagram.
Drink the tap water. It's free, safe, and delicious. As a New Yorker, I'm picky about tap water, and Swiss water definitely lived up to my standards.
Take advantage of free public transportation. Many towns like Grindelwald and St. Moritz include free public transportation in your hotel stay! Make sure to ask about this. If you buy a Swiss Pass, this also includes free public transportation.
Eat a big breakfast. Hopefully it'll keep you going until dinner. A sit-down meal at many Swiss restaurants can easily cost $50+ per person so if you’re eating out for both lunch and dinner, things add up. Even my most luxury of travel clients are surprised by food prices in Switzerland.
Eat the bread. The Swiss make excellent bread, and bakeries are everywhere.
Go easy on the chocolate. Everyone is going to give you some. At first, I was enthusiastic. Then I sorta hit my limit. (I am not a milk chocolate person anyhow.)
Try rösti. This crispy Swiss potato dish is simple, comforting, and absolutely delicious.
COOP is your friend. Visit a COOP (or another grocery store) on your first day to get a feel for prices and stock up on snacks. Your wallet will thank you later.
Swiss beauty products are worth checking out. Switzerland is home to luxury skincare brands like Valmont and La Prairie, but don't overlook the local pharmacy brands. Louis Widmer, Weleda, and Mavala are excellent quality and often cost less in Switzerland than abroad.
Plan around cable car hours. Many mountain lifts stop operating surprisingly early—often around 5:00–5:30 p.m. I once arrived at the Wengen cable car just as it was closing. Then it started raining, so that excursion didn't happen! Always double-check the last departure time before heading to the mountains.
Always ask ChatGPT or Claude what side of the train to sit on. For longer train rides, this is must!
Trains are hot, even with AC. Be prepared for this! Swiss trains can be great but honestly, if you are a 5 star traveler, you will find a nice Mercedes sedan and a capable driver much more enjoyable and relaxing.

Ready to Talk Switzerland?

I've ridden these routes and stayed in these hotels myself, and through Virtuoso I can add amenities at most of the properties above — room upgrades, breakfast, and hotel credits that don't cost you anything. More importantly, I'll steer you toward the right base towns, the right room categories (the view is not a given), and the right rail class and season — which, as you've now read, matters more than most people realize. If you're ready to talk Switzerland, book a complimentary vacation consultation here.

About Krista

I’m a Virtuoso travel advisor based in Palm Beach, Florida. I attended the University of Notre Dame for undergrad and I have my MBA from the University of Chicago. Before building my travel business, I spent 20 years in the investment management industry and over a decade living and working in London, England. I’ve personally traveled to 80+ countries and now design thoughtful, highly customized trips for travelers who value expertise, access, and a seamless experience.

I offer a complimentary 30-minute consultation for travelers considering a custom itinerary or luxury cruise. Book a complimentary vacation consultation here.

For travel inspiration and real-time updates, you can follow along on Instagram or connect with me on Facebook. I also share a curated list of travel products I genuinely use and recommend in my online store.

What I Offer…

Custom itinerary design for complex, multi-stop trips
VIP hotel benefits through Virtuoso and preferred partner programs (including complimentary breakfast, hotel credits, and priority for upgrades where available)
Luxury ocean, river, and expedition cruises with added onboard credits
Vetted villa rentals with concierge services worldwide
Private guides, small-group touring, and unique local experiences
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I work best with travelers who want expert planning, trusted partnerships, and someone in their corner from start to finish. That’s what I am best at! Ready to talk travel? Book a complimentary vacation consultation here.

Just Back: One Week in Switzerland