I just finished a one-week river cruise with AmaWaterways. This was a particularly interesting cruise because it was supposed to be a Netherlands and Belgium itinerary, but at 8 pm the night I flew out to Paris, AmaWaterways called to tell me the water levels were too low. Would I be open to Luxembourg, France, Germany, and Switzerland instead?

I've never been to Luxembourg, so I was happy about this change! Luxembourg makes 81 countries for me. The cruise would end in Basel and I was heading to Zurich post-cruise anyhow, so the change worked out perfectly. I cancelled my flight from Amsterdam to Basel and booked a train from Basel to Zurich instead — a 53-minute journey — but that was fine.

A Note About Low Water Levels in Europe

Low water levels are happening on both the Rhine and the Danube right now. While we were traveling, at least two river cruise ships ran aground — one a German brand called Phoenix, the other a Viking ship. Additionally, there were a lot of Viking guests staying at the Kimpton in Amsterdam whose cruise had been cancelled entirely. (AFTER they arrived in Amsterdam!)

To fix low water levels, you either need more snow to melt or a lot of rain. In July and August, neither is likely. Most of the snow is gone by then. If I have one takeaway from my low-water experience, it's this: if a river cruise is on your bucket list, target the shoulder seasons.

AmaWaterways is less risky in low-water situations because their ships have less of a draft. But still — low water is low water.

My room under the eaves at the Kimpton Amsterdam

Amsterdam Before the Ship

In Amsterdam, I spent my one-night pre-cruise stay at the Kimpton De Witt. I like this hotel. It has a lively restaurant and bar and plenty of social space. The complimentary cocktail hour at 4 pm was most welcome after a long day of wandering around Amsterdam, trying to find somewhere to do my laundry. (I know this sounds odd, but I have this quirk where I really enjoy doing my laundry in foreign countries. It makes me feel like a local.) I did find a great place, by the way — The Wash Company, on Haarlemerdijk.

‍As an IHG preferred partner, I can book the Kimpton De Witt with a room upgrade if available, daily breakfast for two, a property credit, and early check-in and late checkout when available. Same rate you'd pay booking direct.

Before heading out to the suburb of Zaandam to embark on my AmaWaterways cruise, I had a tasty lunch at The Lebanese Sejaria. It's a small takeaway and perhaps not worth a specific trip, but if you need a quick lunch on the hoof and you're nearby, it's a great option. (I got the chicken and hummus wrap with extra pickles. There is just something about Lebanese pickles!) I also, um, got a manicure at Blooming Nails down the street.

A note on Zaandam. Amsterdam is trying to reduce pollution in the city center, so nearly all river cruises now embark out in the suburbs. My Uber from the Kimpton De Witt to Zaandam was a pricey 60 euros — prices were surging when I ordered. Don't head to your ship much earlier than 2 pm — there's a small village and not much else to do while you’re waiting to get into your cabin. Enjoy your time in Amsterdam instead.

Our first stop on our cruise was Amsterdam

Now, The Cruise

Our first full day, Ama bussed us back into Amsterdam for a canal cruise and some free time. You know I'm a sucker for a boat ride, so I enjoyed this. The challenge was that the temperature dropped and it started raining, so after wandering the streets for a bit, we found a place to warm up with a coffee.

The next day we headed to Antwerp, Belgium, where I took a beer tour with an excellent, personable guide. I love these experiential tours where you get more than a guide's monologue. To quote my mother: "Don't tell me who built the building and when. Tell me who had the affair with the architect's wife." During our beer tour, we tried three different beers at three different bars, which was quite fun.

On Day 4, we had a big travel day to work around the low water. Ama bussed us from Antwerp to Luxembourg — about four hours with a bathroom break and traffic. Luxembourg was Country #81 for me and Country #3 on this cruise. My friends and I skipped the city tour in favor of wandering the center on our own. Luxembourg feels like a simulation. Everyone sitting in cafés, enjoying the lovely weather. I liked the liveliness of it and would love to spend more time there. After Luxembourg, we drove another three hours to Strasbourg, again with a bathroom break. The bus had bathrooms, but they were not great. (Somewhat disappointed in Ama for this.) There was wifi, but the driver couldn't remember the password.

We hit Country #4 when we reached Strasbourg, France. Did you know I'm part Alsatian? My maternal grandfather's family is from Alsace. In Strasbourg, I had perhaps the best tour of the trip — a late-starter tour with an amazing guide who fit all of Strasbourg into 45 minutes and then gave us 45 minutes to explore on our own. Strasbourg feels so French and so German at the same time. The half-timbered houses of La Petite France lean over the canals like something staged. I loved it. (It almost feels Disney-esque!)

The next day, we had two choices: Heidelberg or Baden-Baden. I chose Baden-Baden because I've already been to Heidelberg. Baden-Baden is a peaceful little spa town. My recommendation is to skip the tour and wander on your own. Go to Café König, get some Black Forest cake and German sparkling wine, and call it a day.

Our last stop before disembarking in Basel was Colmar. I LOVED COLMAR. It's a foodie town — so many Alsatian products, and the covered market is the place to graze your way through them. Again, skip the tour and wander. Find a cute café and grab lunch. It was hot while we were there, which was not enjoyable. By the time we headed back to the ship, it was 97 degrees in the shade. (Something in my life became clear in Colmar. Colmar is famous for its muenster cheese. My entire life, my mother regularly served muenster cheese at breakfast. Like…I grew up with HUGE wheels of muenster in the freezer. I just assumed this was normal until I got to college and no one knew what muenster was.)

I want to go back to Alsace and spend real time there. I really enjoyed both Strasbourg and Colmar.

In the blink of an eye, the cruise was over. In Basel Switzerland, we said goodbye to our captain and crew. We were docked about 15 minutes outside of town. To make up for the itinerary change, Ama paid for my transfer to the Basel train station, which was very nice of them.

The next part of my trip? Switzerland. More on that later this month!

Tips for Your Next River Cruise

People seriously book river cruises more than a year out. For the best cabin selection, book early. AmaWaterways requires just a small deposit to hold a cabin.
AmaWaterways includes nearly everything — all your excursions are included, wine and beer at meals are included, plus there’s a complimentary Sip & Sail cocktail hour before dinner every evening.
Book the bigger room category. It's worth paying up for the larger categories — you get a bigger bathroom.
Avoid July and August. It's hot and the water levels are low. Ama has some fun active excursions involving hiking and biking, but that's no fun when it's 100 degrees outside.
Comfortable shoes. Cobblestones take a toll on your feet. Invest in comfortable sneakers and sandals. I like Ecco sandals myself.
Bring snacks. I've said this before about river cruising — they don't do snacks well. If you'd like a mid-afternoon treat of cheese and crackers, pick up some cheese and bread in town. My friends and I also grabbed mixed nuts, potato chips, and gummi bears.
You don't have to do the ship tours. Don't be afraid to do your own thing. Just be back by all-aboard time.‍ ‍
Do laundry as you go. Laundry on a river cruise is insanely affordable — so much cheaper than hotel laundry. In most cases you'll get it back the same day.‍ ‍
If you like spicy food, ask for sambal at meals. It's an Indonesian hot sauce similar to sriracha but with a richer flavor.
Consider the Lower Danube. The itineraries that go into Bucharest are usually an incredible value. I love this part of the world but most people find it very mysterious and skip it.
Plan ahead for Christmas and tulip season sailings. Those sail dates book up far in advance.

‍Ready to Plan Your River Cruise?

‍As a top-producing AmaWaterways advisor, I can add onboard credits and other perks to your sailing, and I'll steer you toward the right ship, the right stateroom category, and the right time of year — which, as you've now read, matters more than most people realize. If you’re ready to talk river cruising, book a complimentary vacation consultation here.

About Krista

I’m a Virtuoso travel advisor based in Palm Beach, Florida. I attended the University of Notre Dame for undergrad and I have my MBA from the University of Chicago. Before building my travel business, I spent 20 years in the investment management industry and over a decade living and working in London, England. I’ve personally traveled to 80 countries and now design thoughtful, highly customized trips for travelers who value expertise, access, and a seamless experience.

I offer a complimentary 30-minute consultation for travelers considering a custom itinerary or luxury cruise.c

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I Just Visited Six Countries in Seven Days with AmaWaterways